When I lived in Paris in the early ‘90s, I tried to brew up a little spooky Halloween for my then 6-year-old daughter. I invited her two best friends over to dress up and carve pumpkins. Afterwards we loaded the pumpkin with lit candles and turned the lights out. I ended up with three crying girls. The following year, I heard Harry’s Bar was putting on a Halloween party so, dressed in costumes, I and a friend took my daughter to Harry’s Bar and were the only ones in costumes. All we got for our enthusiasm was nasty remarks from the French customers. That was how I remember Halloween in France. In the following years, the word Halloween as well as any customs fell from grace in the French countryside.

This year, however, was a different story. For a few years, the holiday has been gaining attention among the French, whether from curiosity, or the marketing machine. Store clerks usually dress up and have fun with it, and kids would go to school in costumes. Last night, my town had a party in the center plaza, opening the market to trick-or-treaters. Loads of kids and young adults turned out. Even the waiters joined in. A great experience for the kids and much safer than going door-to-door.